The bush-taxi lurches off the tarmac onto a dirt track, bucking and swaying like a small boat fighting against a rough sea, the old Mercedes diesel engine labouring as we plough through sand filled gullies, then cruising along hard-baked rippled clay that threatens to shake every nut and bolt of the old bus loose. An intense blue sky blends into the flat yellow horizon, from which a settlement, mud-brick dwellings camouflaged in the parched semi-desert appears. We thread our way through the village. Our driver squeezes together two bared wires protruding from the almost disassembled dashboard. This I realise sounds the horn that clears goats, chickens, dogs and children from the track. I lose count of the villages we pass in this way, each one named after its founder, but as anonymous to us as the mountains of the moon. I have a privileged position, one of three passengers up-front next to the driver. The other twenty-three passengers are squeezed into a space designed for fifteen. Taking a sip from a bottle of mineral water I then mop my brow with an already sopping handkerchief and think of rainy English winters, especially the one we had just escaped from, where my companion had talked me into helping her look into the possibility of starting a charity. Seemed a good idea at the time – find a village, buy a plot, get a couple of buildings erected, open a home for orphans, rent out rooms to visitors to pay it’s way. Sounds simple when you say it quickly, but knowing Carole, she will find a way. (more…)